haha. It’s way more cost-effective to make your own. Would you build them and trim to level? If you need the front open, but are not concerned about the sides or back, you could always run some diagonal bracing (top to opposite bottom on each side, for example). I kind of wish I had done it that way. The sets I built are all in my basement and none have doors on them. Thanks Pete, I was thinking about using a full 8′ 2×4 for the 4 corner pieces, but was thinking it then might be too tall for the base since its only 21″ wide. I only used 3 shelves per unit due to ceiling height of 7′ and putting 15″ clear height per shelf (19″ total per shelf), so that common 64-66 qt plastic containers would fit right in. I loaded them with the heaviest items and totes on the bottom shelves and lighter on top, naturally, just in case. Build a DIY Cat Tower, Kitty Tower, Scratching Post, Cat Condo, Be Prepared for Power Loss—the Briggs & Stratton Q6500 QuietPower Series Inverter Generator, Kobalt 40V Max Electric Outdoor Power Equipment, Kobalt 80V Max Cordless Electric Outdoor Power Equipment, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpZBcKKuJ2Y, 13 8-foot 2x4s (I get 14 or 15 in case something goes awry), 2 4×8 sheets of 23/32 OSB subfloor (because it’s cheap, but you can use plywood, or any scrap stuff you might have around), Saw (something that will cut 2x4s and OSB). Would you recommend any kind of spacer between the wood legs and concrete floor? Does putting the boards in front and back create more stability? To make these shelves yourself, you should have a table or circular saw, a level and measuring tape, a framing square, an impact or drill driver, joist hangers, whiteboard studs, deck screws, and 4×8 plywood. It could be that pricing has changed since this was written, but I found the costs to be about on par with something store bought, the difference being you can’t easily find 8′ wide shelves; typically you’re stuck with 6′. (2x6s, 2x8s, 2x10s, 2x12s aren’t actual size either). These plans were so easy to follow. The screws won’t hit if you use the screw templates in the plan (mine didn’t anyway). I have the doors planned out on SolidWorks using threaded pipe, straight casters, and eyelets for the hardware. I built the sides and back leaving the front cross bars off. one screw on the outside and two on the inside) to avoid the screws from the long supports hitting them. I’m mostly done building mine, with the top 2x4s at te top. Now stencil an inspirational saying like “LOVE LIKE YOU’VE NEVER BEEN HURT” somewhere and you’ll be done. This made it much easier to drop the shelf in place and then screw everything back. So you’re cheap, I mean, frugal, like us. Just wondering, if you cut the end pieces to 21″, and then add 2×4’s onto each side, wouldn’t that total a depth of 25″, or am I missing something? I made one for the end pieces and one for attaching the long 2x4s to the end pieces to make the skeleton. I used scrap 2x4s (see right) to layout my sample shelf heights and marked from those, but you can use tape measures and all that if you have exact heights in mind. Remember, they need to be 21-inches so when your side brackets go on the total width will be 24-inches to fit your shelves. What I love about these shelf and storage designs is the pure simplicity of each one. I eventually started using a small metal corner brace (like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Hardware-4-Pack-1-in-Zinc-Corner-Braces/1000201727) as a guide by placing the drill bit on the inside corner and that helped somewhat. Thanks! great article!!! Built one this weekend with a few variations – pressure treated 2×4 footers (damp basement floor), shelves 3 feet deep, and 2×3 shelf beams. Built my shelf based on these planes in about 2 hours and the cost with the screws was about $70 at Lowes (Los Angeles market). (uk equivalent of lowes etc). I then moved to the next one, then installed that shelf. Couldn’t you put the vertical 2×4’s on the outside and not have to notch the plywood to fit. I built is exactly like the plans with one minor change in technique. Not only is this a bigger shelf, but it’s longer too, as it’s 90 inches total. Then you can rest one end of the long rail on it while screwing in the other. Gives you a little room to spread it slightly for an easy fit. They’re great. To start the project in your own storage shed, you’ll need a level, a circular saw or miter, a drill, clamps, pocket hole screws (two and a half inches), two sheets of OSB wood, and 14 2x4s that are 8 feet each. Most of them take little time and few materials, so you can make this an afternoon project over the weekend. I have built 2 sets according to plans, one in my barn and one at my daughter’s house. One trick I learned to minimize my reliance on sacred geometry and profanity when inserting the notched OSB is to temporarily remove one of the short 2×4 crosspieces one level down from the top shelf. Our next pick is another great tutorial from Wood Tools Workshop and is more ceiling-based shelving for those too-cramped storage sheds. All in all, a great project, and two units were built this last weekend. I also found it was easier to cut the OSB shelf boards in half to install. FIRST, decide whether your end brackets will be toward the inside of the shelves or toward the outside of the shelves. Add in “bouncy” floor panels and you might as well be in a kid’s playhouse. I’m sure rotating the triangle pattern is fine. I did have to buy some extra equipment – torque driver (the drilling nearly burnt up the motor on my driver/drill) and a jigsaw, but I am happy with the results so far! 3. If I was going to lift it off the floor a bit the first thing that popped into my head was a nail-in nylon furniture foot thing. You could probably used 3/8 plywood and still not have it bend, but you might have to add a couple of cross braces on each shelf. It boasts a generous storage area without encroaching on workspace below. Thank you for the plans. 3. Agree, great plans. That’s why we love you, Ryan. They are very stable and are not anchored to the wall in any way. The deeper shelves meant extra plywood and possible sagging so I put cross braces and extra 2×4 vertical posts in the middle – front and back matching the corner posts. Great plans and easy instructions. I’ve seen some wooden posts outside with metal collars at the base, but maybe that’s overkill indoors. I actually installed my shelves as I assembled. I came home, did all of my cuts and marked out my shelves on the legs and went to town. It wouldn’t matter if the 24″ deep OSB came up short by 1/2″ on each side, but just wondered if I’m misunderstanding something here. Trip to the ER, anyone? If you were going to anchor these into a concrete wall (instead of shimming), how would you do it? Any additional support need to be considered? Finish off your shelves with some glitter, hot glue, and jewels. One five pound box of screws is enough for three to four units depending on how many screws you put into each shelf, and how many shelves you decide on. Pre drill all holes and assemble as shown on illustration above using wood glue and 3″ wood screws. I thought they were pretty straight as I drilled them, but when I drove the screws in they were all over the place.