This first hand experience and cost saving goal is evident in the tool design as well as the detailed grind processes I have developed and demonstrated in numerous training videos on my Youtube channel BigIronTV. Ideally both short sides would have no teeth, as otherwise you will be grinding into the screw that is used as stop-pin. Once I get most of the material removed I switch to a 3M Cubitron II in 80 grit to clean up the grind a bit. When I started toying with the idea of knife making I was mostly put off by the fact that one needs a belt grinder (or so I thought at that time) to be able to grind the bevels and I had neither the workshop space, nor did I want to spend 1500€+ on one. You get one or two steps finer file (the Cut #1 would leave crazy deep scratches) - I am using Cut #2. And I just ruined my second one. Great advice. Using 3/8" thick steel the bevel grinder calculator suggest a 7.1 degree grind. I am 74 and have just started making knives. Remember - you can always remove metal if needed, but not put it back on the blade. The resulting grind is gently convex and cuts pretty well. This system is great for knife makers that make medium to large runs of each style blade. Then I put on a Tri-Zact 220 grit to finish the bevel for pre-heat treat. You should however also have a look at "Dreadnought" files - these have teeth ordered in curves and supposedly clog less while filing (you need to clean the file often while filing - with a steel brush). Multi Guide Pro X Intro Video. Also what exact files do you recommend? I am glad you find it helpful :) I am not posting too much on my YT but I may pull off a few videos this year as a part of some more technical articles. If it is too much than you may need to add some more support under it, or use less pressure. If you have you edge at the final, pre-HT thickness and do not want to grind it down, than mark the edge with a permanent marker. Using it was more enjoyable due to the reduced weight, compact size, increased accuracy, and reduced production cost. While you can not avoid that, with regular swapping you can minimize the effect of possible asymmetry while grinding. :). I made my first two knives using a jig copied from Aarons , about 5 years ago.A pal of mine has since me a belt grinder which has only been used fro trials on hollow grinds.My original jig was destroyed by white ants and I intend to make a knew one, so thanks for the suggested changes, I feel that for me the jig is easier particularly for the smaller knives. I made a cross slide guide for myself and was able to explore the increased benefits of this function in the bevel grinding process. Once you get to kitchen knives you need to get more careful about the grinding angles (as these will be as low as 1°), Also - with those low grinding angles (and large contact area while grinding) the file will have a tendency to skate on the blade (it is NOT dull, do not have yourself fooled). The reason is as you grind higher up the blade you start to loose support area (once you switch to the other side). So proceed carefully. One of my problems has been understanding the grind bevel degrees. So before you read on, please watch the original video: From my point of view the main properties of this jig are the following: I have also added a second raw of mounting holes for working on smaller blades and to avoid grinding into the wood when getting closer to the tip. Thank you for posting this. In this video I will show you how to create a knife bevel guide. Clean the blade (remove scratches) up to about grit 240 (i.e. In general you want to start from the edge (with the steepest grinding angle) and work your way towards the spine of the knife in subsequent steps. I am going to attempt to make this. Knife Bevels. After HT the knife will be too hard to work with files. Now I am pleased to be able to offer the new Multi Guide Pro X with full confidence that it stands on a solid history of proven results and pushes the envelope of possibilities even further. The suggested up grades are great, m,y early jig was destroyed by white ants so a new one will be made shortly as I feel it is the best, for me, for the smaller knives. The blade will taper from the spine all the way to the edge of the blade. just sub to your YT channel : ). 60, 80, 120, 180, 240) before going for HT. The above means - you will be working on a large blade that in non hardened state is not all that stiff. As a new knife maker, stuff like it worth its weight in gold. Nice write up thank. Did you encounter similar difficulties? One possible compensation would be to set your hig to a slightly larger angle for the tip to compensate for the angle change when filing. This listing is for the Guide only. I would only add that it definitely makes sense to browse YouTube as many have built this kind of jigs with different little adjustments. These are supposed to have less problems with clogging and will also have both short sides without teeth. You want to switch sides after each step and ideally a few times during the first grind as this is the one step in which you remove most of the material. Once you are done with the grinding jig you move to free-hand grinding. I have a problem with the knife bending towards the tip area while filing ( long kitchen knife) and was thinking about using magnets to prevent that from happening. The Multi Guide Pro X effortlessly replaced my previous cross slide test unit. The World's Easiest Grinding Jig for Knife Making - YouTube Long thing blades of kitchen knife will tend to flex under pressure while grinding and thus changing the grinding angle. This changed when I have accidentally came across the video from Aaron in which he describes in detail how to make a beveling jig using only very simple tools and materials - at that point I decided to give it a try - thank you Aaron! Faster than a free hand filing. Multi Guide Pro X in action: Click here to see guide in action. I also ruined the tip of my first knife for the same reason. Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review. As a knife maker first I developed the Multi Guide Pro for my personal use to decrease my cost of producing a knife. The Multi Guide Pro X expands on the class leading aspects of the design and pushes the grind capabilities even further ahead of the competition. I want to make a Tonto blade with a 1/2"bevel grind on each side. Once you have the design and in particular the grind (geometric cross section) on paper - start to work your way down and draw straight lines how you want to get there with the grinding jig. This file cuts on 3 sides - on of the short sides is without teeth. In this video I will show you how to create a knife bevel guide. Tool Arm Adapter | Allows use of 1.5" Tool Arms in 2" Tool Slots, Heretic H2 Extreme Performance 2" X 72" Grinder. To grind the convex grind will take some basic math to thin of in advance and calculate the angles (and thus the height setting of the bolt) to make. A simple full flat grind will not make for a great kitchen knife - you want either a wide-bevel grind or a convex grind of some sorts. Thanks for watching and please in joy :) It minimizes the chance of micro-fractures during the quench and will also make your life easier finishing the blade after HT (since the blade will be much harder then). I have been using DICK precision files: https://www.dick.de/en/files-and-rasps/products/precision-files type 'Hand' length 12" and Cut #1 They are top quality and will grind many blades.